2004.09.26 in Rome

Headed out for the Vatican museums to see the Sistine Chapel - only to encounter the F'g longest line I've ever seen. The queue wrapped around a couple of blocks outside the musuem walls all the way to St. Peter's Square. So we instead jumped into the security check queue for St. Peter's Basilica and got into another queue for some "Cupula." We had no idea what a Cupula was but with a long line-up it must be good, right? After a few more queues of waiting we paid $5US each for the "no lift" option; apparently whatever we were paying for involved climbing some 320 steps the warning signs indicated. We were able to skip the queue for the elevator going up so we climbed and climbed. Ahh... we reached the top of the staircase outside and walked into the massive dome of St. Peter's Basilica looking down at the ant-sized people. But just wait a minute. We haven't climbed those 320 steps yet. As we left the inner walkway of the dome, there was a narrow staircase pointing to the Cupula and so we climbed. I climbed the narrow steps as sharply angled ceilings brushed against my head. I climbed as the steps seemed to become smaller and more steeper. I climbed as the last tiny spiral staircase led outside. To the top of the cupula. To the top of St. Peter's Basilica and a breathtaking 360 degree view of Vatican City and Rome. (Don't bother taking pictures through the grated windows as you climb) This was worth the 1 hour wait and exhaustive workout. We skipped an afternoon walking tour to save some 15 euros and so I led the way as usual to explore famous sights I heard about. We saw Castel Sant'Angelo, the Pantheon, Piazza Venezia, the Vittoriale, the Roman Forum, and of course, the Colosseum. All these major sights are walking distance from St. Peter's - just follow Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

We ate at this small pizzeria and realized they served pizza by the kilogram - we ate some awesome freshly baked 'za and roasted chicken for less than last night's dinner. The pizza was fantastic. It's like thin, airy bread toasted on the bottom and covered with cheese and whatever toppings they offered. There was also no tomato sauce on the varieties we chose - we didn't miss it at all. Pizzas are not round (they're square) and when usually ordered as a quick meal on the run, they cut out 2 rectangular portions and serve them as a sandwich.

At night we took the metro to Spagna station where we passed by the Spanish Steps and all the people chillaxing on them. On the subway train, Le witnessed a pickpocket attempt to rob a woman's purse. Le was suspicious as the guy slotted in between himself and the target when he got on. The thief had a jacket around his arm and was using it to hide his hand as he tried to lift open her bag. He didn't get far as Le was eyeing him the whole time and a possible undercover police officer boarded alerting the thief's other partner. They both quickly got off at Spagna and Le couldn't see where they disappeared to... Fontain de Trevi was our destination and it is truly a spectacular sight to behold at nighttime. Also, we were accosted for random "directions" by these suspect Italians on the streets near the Fontain twice. We ignored them and kept on walking.